Why do you only
service some types of clocks? There are
several reasons.... My shop space is somewhat
limited so I just don't have the room for very
large clocks. Some clocks and time pieces require
specialized tools, parts and service techniques
which I am not prepaired to offer at this time. The
clocks that I service are the kind of clocks that a
typical American home is most likely to have.
Concentratingg on this market segment allows me to
provide the best quality service, fast turnaround
times, and more reasonable prices. 
My clock is just wound too tight.
How can I get it running? With the possible
exception of some weight driven clocks, when a
clock is fully wound it simply will not wind any
farther. Forcing it beyond that point could cause
something to break. A fully wound clock that
refuses to run has a mechanical problem that
requires attention. It's not just
"wound too tight".
Do you make house calls? I
offer local area pickup and delivery. I will be
happy to come get your clock and take it to my shop
where it can be properly serviced. I normally do
not service clocks in the home except possibly to
adjust the beat or rate.
My 8-day clock runs fine for 6 days
then slows and stops. This condition is
common with spring-powered clocks and can have
several causes. As springs run down they provide
less power. Anything that causes the clock to
require more power than normal will cause it to
stop before the spring is fully run down. Lack of
oil, dirt buildup, and worn pivots [bearings] are
the most likely cause. After many years springs
often take a "set" or become weak and can
simply no longer provide a full 8-day run. All of
these conditions can be corrected, but if the
springs are weak, the simplest solution is often to
simply wind the clock twice a week.
Why does my clock not strike the
correct hour? Most American clocks use a
count wheel strike system. The time side and
strike side of the clock are completely
independent. The time side of the clock does not
"tell" the strike side what the actual
time is, just that it's time to strike again.
There are two conditions that can cause the strike
and time to get out of step. The strike did not run
when it was supposed to and got behind, or the
strike didn't stop when it was supposed to and
got ahead of the time. The most common cause of the
strike not running is that it was not wound, or not
fully wound so the clock continued to run after the
strike had no power left. Worn parts, lack of
lubrication, and improper adjustments can all cause
the strike not to run or not to stop.
The exact procedure for getting the strike back in
step with the time varies from clock to clock
(please contact me if you need help with this). If
the strike continues to get out of step for no
reason, then your clock will need service to
correct the problem.
Can a clock be damaged by turning
the hands backward? Most clocks can be
turned backward if they are not within 10 minutes
of striking and you don't turn them back past
12:00 (or 12:00 and 6:00 if the clock strikes on
the half hour). Many "newer" clocks have
setback movements and can safely be turned
back past 12:00 and 6:00, but doing so will cause
most American clocks to strike an incorrect number
of times. Most clocks made before about 1885 will
be damaged if turn backward past a striking point.
Non-striking clocks can be set backward. Unless the
label in the clock (or your clock repair person)
tells you that your clock is a setback model, it
would be best to assume that it is not.
Why does my clock not strike
exactly on the hour? This is a frequently
encountered condition that can be caused by any one
or a combination of several things. Forcing the
hands of a clock to turn backward past 12:00
frequently results in this condition. Loose, bent,
or poorly fitted hands may give the appearance that
the clock is not striking at the right time. The
strike mechanism may be out of adjustment or badly
worn. Most old clocks have some lost motion or
"free play" in the gears that move the
hands so it can be challenging to make the clock
strike straight up exactly on 12:00 every time. A
minute either side of 12:00 is usually considered
normal, several minutes off indicates that service
is needed.
Can you refinish my clock's
case? I do not do case restorations, but are you sure you
really want to do that? Generally, whenever
anything original about an old clock is replaced,
the market value of the clock is decreased. If the
finish is so bad that the clock makes a really bad
presentation, then yes, it may be time to consider
refinishing it. In many cases a good cleaning and a
coat of wax may be a better choice. Keep in mind that a clock that's
150 years old is supposed to look 150 years old.
It's ok to leave a few blemishes.
Can my clock be converted to
battery power and still strike? Yes,
battery powered quartz movements that strike the
hour and/or play Westminster chimes on the qtr.
hour are available for many old windup clocks. Keep
in mind that whenever anything original about an
old clock is replaced, the market value of the
clock is decreased. The original movement should be
retained and passed on to any future owner of the
clock.
Is there a way to silence or quiet
my clock's "strike" sound?
The simplest way to silence the strike sound on
many clocks is to simply not wind the strike side
(usually the left side) of the clock, however, if
you later decide to wind the strike side and the
clock has a count wheel strike mechanism, the
striking may be out of step with the time of day.
Some clocks, especially those with a rack &
snail strike mechanism, may not run if the strike
side is not wound. Metal strike hammers can often
be replaced with leather faced hammers for a softer
tone. A stick-on felt pad can sometimes be placed
over the hammer face to reduce the sound. A clock
shop may be able to fabricate a hook device to
restrain the strike hammer when you prefer not to
have the clock strike.
My clock has a really loud
"tic". Can you make it run more
quietly? Maybe. A clock that has badly worn
parts, especially the escape wheel pivots and
related parts of the escapement, can be noisy.
replacing these parts and properly adjusting the
escapement [the part that ticks] can often
significantly quiet a noisy clock.... but some
clocks are just more noisy than others and seem to
defy any attempt to quiet them. Placing the clock
on a rubber mat may help. Placing the clock in a
different location or another room with different
acoustic properties, can often make the sound less
noticeable.
Are clocks with wooden movements
too fragile to run everyday? Most wooden
movement clocks are at least 175 years old and many
are still running just fine. That says a lot about
their durability. Some collectors of old
clocks....old cars....old furniture...and the like,
feel that these artifacts from the past should be
preserved just as they are for future generations
and never be used. Others, like myself, feel that
old clocks were meant to be run and enjoyed. I have
several wooden movement clocks in my collection
that run every day. I expect they will all out live
me, then someone else can make the decision to run
them or let them rest.
Can wooden movement clocks be
repaired? Yes! Wooden movements are very
repairable, however the materials and methods are
somewhat different. Depending on what parts need to
be repaired or replaced, service cost can be
significantly more than for common brass movement
clocks.
How often should wooden movement
clocks be oiled? The short answer is never!
The wooden pivot holes require no lubrication. The
escape wheel in most wooden clocks has one
brass pivot hole that should be oiled once every 3 to
5 years as needed with a very small amount
of oil. Likewise, the pallet strip (verge) rides on
a metal pin and that should be oiled sparingly. There is
one exception; if the movement was made with brass
bushings, or has had brass bushings installed (a
bad idea), then these require oil just like in a
brass clock. Some shops lubricate wooden pivot
holes with a small amount of graphite powder.
Whether this prolongs the life of the clock is
debatable, but there is no question that it makes
the wood look bad. Most professionals seem to
recommend no lubrication on wooden parts.
Should I have my clock's
movement replaced or rebuilt? That really
depends on what type of clock you have, how old it
is, what you plan plan to do with the clock, the
cost, and the availability of a replacement
movement. Whenever original parts are replaced with
new, the clock's market value as a collectable,
antique will be significantly
reduced. If the clock is more than 70 years old, or
you plan to keep it in the family for future
generations, then, if at all possible, I would keep
the original movement and have it repaired or
rebuilt. There are a few exceptions.
Quite a few reproduction style clocks from the
1960s, '70s, and '80s are now coming in
with badly worn movements. Some models are wearing
out early due to problems with some of the original
materials used during manufacture. Hopefully, these
problems have been corrected. New replacement
movements from the same manufacturer may be
available for little more than the cost of a
rebuild job. Most of these were made by a couple of
popular German makers, and stamped with numerous
different brand names (even some American names),
so your replacement movement will likely have a
different brand name stamped on it.
Cuckoo Clocks, because they are more complicated,
expensive to repair, and often poorly made, may be
good candidates for a replacement movement (if one
is available). Many shops simply refuse to accept
cuckoos for repair. I accept them on a case by case
basis when I deem them to be repairable at a
reasonable cost.
If you have an antique clock that has no movement
at all, has a movement that's so badly damaged
that repair is impossible, or has previously had
its movement replaced with an incorrect movement,
Then a movement replacement is appropriate. From a
collector's perspective, the best option would
be to locate an old movement that is identical to
the original movement and have that movement
rebuilt before installation. One option to consider
is a temporary battery powered quartz
movement, which will allow you to enjoy your old
clock while you search for a proper replacement
movement.
Do you repair Cuckoo
clocks? It has been said that almost every
home has a Cuckoo clock and that almost none of
them run. One reason for this is that many clock
repair shops refuse to work on them. Unlike other
clocks where the "insides" can be removed
as a unit and setup on a test stand for observation
and service, Cuckoos have numerous parts (whistles,
birds, bellows, etc.) which are separately attached
to the clock case. In short, the clock cannot
operate out of its case, and in the case, many
parts are inaccessible. Many were mass produced and
are rather poorly designed. For example, only the
front of the movement is usually secured to the
case, when the heavy weights are attached, the
movement can sometimes be twisted or distorted
enough to cause the clock to not run properly, even
though it looks perfectly normal out of the
case.
Time is money to the shop, and much time can be
consumed tracking down and repairing problems with
Cuckoo clocks, time that cannot all be billed to
the customer (if the shop wants to keep the
customer). Cuckoos can be repaired, but the cost of
repair may be prohibitive for cheap clocks. In many
cases, a new replacement movement may be the best
solution. I accept Cuckoos on a case by case basis
when I deem them to be repairable at a reasonable
cost.
Why does my clock sometimes stop
for no reason? When a clock stops,
there's always a reason, though not necessarily
an obvious reason. If the clock always stops at the
same time, the problem may be as simple a the
minute hand hitting the hour hand. The clock could
also be out of beat or sitting on an unlevel
surface. Excessively worn internal parts, a bent
tooth on a wheel, or an incorrectly adjusted
escapement can also lead to intermittent stopping
problems. When most clocks are being wound, they
actually stop running - the pendulum continues to
swing, but the clock does not "tic" and
the time does not advance. Some clocks like to take
this opportunity to stop all together after being
wound, so check to be sure the clock is still
running after being wound.
Tracking down and fixing intermittent problems can
be a time consuming process. The first step is
usually to have the clock movement disassembled and
cleaned. While the movement is apart, the pivots
should be serviced as needed, and the entire
movement carefully inspected for anything that
could be causing the problem. Most stopping
problems will be corrected when a clock is cleaned,
worn parts replaced, and properly adjusted.
What's my old clock
worth?
This is one of the most frequently asked questions
and one of the most difficult to answer. I once
asked an antiques dealer that question and he told
me that my clock had no dollar value until it is
sold, and then it would only be worth what someone
was willing to pay on that day. Of course he was
right, but most people who ask expect a dollar
amount. Such a figure can be difficult if not
impossible to determine.
The actual dollar amount received when a vintage
clock is sold may have more to do with the venue
where the clock is offered for sale than the clock
itself. A clock that might be offered for $600.00
in a fine antique shop could fetch less than
$100.00 in an on-line auction depending on how many
people are interested in buying the clock at that
moment.
There are several, often very different, values
that can be placed on an old clock. The dollar
amount one might expect to receive if the clock is
sold may be quiet different from the replacement
cost for insurance purposes. Then there is the real
value the clock has to its owner. A shelf clock
that was given to your grandmother on her wedding
day should be priceless to you, while to a bidder
in an on-line auction, it's just another clock.
The provenance [the origin and history] of the
clock are often important. If there is
documentation that the clock was owned by a famous
person, or even a not so famous person, the value
will be more to a collector.
Value is greatly influenced by the condition of the
clock, and especially so by how much of the clock
is original. Two clocks of the same make, model,
and age can very greatly in value. It is often
difficult to tell just what is original and what is
not. A 150-year old clock may have had its hands or
pendulum or even the clock movement replaced 100
years ago. The replacement parts may be very old
looking and still not be "original". Many
people assume that their clock is in good condition
if it runs and looks nice, but many of these are
almost totally worn out or bare the scars of
improper previous repair work. A clock that has
been carefully refinished may be beautiful, but in
many cases it would be more valuable had the old
finish been left alone.
There has always been a market for fakes and
reproductions. Some are decent quality and can even
be desirable, but they are not originals. Others
are cheap imports, or old cases that have been
fitted with cheap replacement parts. Even the
experts can sometimes be fooled by a good copy.
Placing an accurate monetary value on an antique
clock requires an appraisal by an expert. Such
services, if done properly, include a detailed
physical inspection of the clock and careful
research. Even subtle differences like who was the
printer that made the label can mean the difference
between the clock being common or rare. Such
services are time consuming and expensive and
usually not justified for "ordinary
clocks". Yes, there are places on-line where
for a few bucks one can send in a photo and get an
appraisal, but unless the appraiser actually
examines the clock, such appraisals should not be
relied upon, especially if the clock is thought to
be rare or valuable.
One way to get a general "ball park" idea
of what a similar clock might sell for is to search
on-line auction listings such as www.ebay.com and see what
other clocks have recently sold for. One can also
search local and on-line clock shops and antique
shops like www.rubylane.com to
learn the asking price for similar clocks, but such
prices may be considerably more than a negotiated
selling price. www.antiqueclockspriceguide.com/
lists thousands of antique clocks that have sold at
high- end auction houses. If you find your clock
listed there, you might consider paying the small
fee to view the details. One should keep in mind
that although two clocks may appear identical, in a
photograph or on-line listing. A careful inspection
may reveal that they are quite different.
Sorry, I do not do clock appraisals and I cannot
even suggest a "ball park" value without
having your clock in my shop for inspection.
What kind of oil should I use to
oil my clock? The short answer is clock
oil. If the maker has specified a particular
kind of oil, that recommendation should usually be
followed. Porpoise jaw oil and whale oils, are
generally no longer available, so when these are
specified, one must find a suitable modern
substitute. A good clock oil should stay where its
put and not run out of the pivot holes. It should
resist drying out, not get too "thick" in
the cold or "thin" when warm, reduce
friction, prevent wear, and last for several years
before being replaced.
Most clockmakers stick with a brand of clock oil
that they know will give good results and will
often strongly defend their choice over the choice
of other professionals. Actually, most any of the
name brand clock oils sold by clock parts suppliers
such as Timesavers should
do just fine. Generic or "store brand"
clock oils are usually available at lower cost, but
one never really knows what they are and the seller
may change suppliers frequently. The main springs
in spring powered clocks require a heavier oil or
light grease. Main spring lubricants are also
available from places like Timesavers.
WD-40 and other penetrating
solvent-lubricants are generally not
appropriate clock lubricants, even though the
makers may recommend them for that purpose.
Likewise, oils formulated for automobile engines,
guns, fishing rods, lawn mowers, bicycles, air
tools, sewing machines, squeaky door hinges, and
the so called all-in-one oils, are not recommended.
Some of these products may have some
of the properties of a good clock oil, but most of
them will not have all of the properties of
a good clock oil. But do you really need to oil
your clock?........(see next answer below).
How often should my clock be
oiled? There is no absolute timetable for
how often a clock should be oiled. Environmental
conditions, the design of the clock, and the type
of oil used for the last oiling are all factors to
consider. Experienced clock repairpersons
frequently are in disagreement on this question.
When a clock that's been working properly
starts loosing time, striking more slowly, or
stopping before running down, it may be over due
for oiling and/or cleaning.
Oiling is usually done in conjunction with
disassembly, cleaning, and inspection of the pivots
[bearings and shafts]. A badly worn or dirty clock
should be serviced before it is oiled. If the clock
is properly cleaned and oiled every 3 to 6
years, there may be no need to have it oiled
between cleanings, however some clocks may require
more frequent oiling due to environmental
consitions and clock design.
My recommendation for most old American clocks is
that if the clock is in unknown condition,
obviously dirty, or has gone for an extended period
without maintenance, then it should be
disassembled, cleaned, and serviced before
being oiled. After an initial cleaning and service,
it may be oiled again about every 1 to 5 years,
followed by a complete disassembly and cleaning
every 5 to 10 years or as needed. Over oiling only
serves to turn the clock into a dust magnet.
Proper oiling usually requires removing the
movement from the clock, which should only be
attempted by a qualified clock repairperson. Clocks
should be lubricated with oils and lubricants
intended for clocks. Never use WD-40 or other
household or automotive products to oil your clock.
If you want to oil your own clock, contact me for
the proper lubricants for your clock. Clocks with
all wooden movements are not oiled except where
they have brass pivot holes or brass bushings
How do you clean clocks, why does
it cost on much? Experts agree that the
only way to properly clean a clock movement
is to completely disassemble it and clean all of
the individual parts. This procedure is time
consuming but allows the pivots [bearings] and
other parts to be easily inspected and, if
necessary, repaired or replaced before serious
problems develop. Considerable time is required to
disassemble, clean, and reassemble a clock
movement. A proper cleaning represents a
significant part of the cost of a quality repair or
service.
Many Amateur "clock fixers", and
"cut-rate" clock shops, cut corners, and
costs, by using some variation of a technique I
call "Clock Baptism" - that is, they dunk
the complete movement in a pail of solvent cleaner,
anoint it liberally with oil, and pray that God
will heal it and keep it running long enough for
the customer's check to clear the bank. You get
what you pay for.....sometimes.
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